Very simply put, LED lights provided they are designed and specified right, will last longer than any other light source, use a minimal amount of power, have much less heat exposure and withstand the rigors of spiking electronics, humidity, water ingress and vibration on a boat. Bulbs use huge amount of power, are fragile and don't last long in a marine environment.
This is like asking who makes the fastest car - i.e. it's not always about brightness. The real question comes down to design, technology and size. OceanLED lights are brighter than most products available; those that seem brighter tend to be to the detriment to longevity and safety. OceanLED lights are designed to use less power, maintain much longer life spans and with far better colour retention and clarity.
Think of it like this - What works best? – One 1000 watt speaker under your TV; or 6 individual speakers around the room? Surround sound is the answer to clever sound and clever lighting design can be done by using more individual lights; it's like surround lighting!
Absolutely, LEDs are a solid state light source, and therefore are vibration proof. All lights are fitted with thermal cut out protection, so if the light does overheat it will turn itself off as a precaution when the temperature allows it will turn back on. Running with traditional lights will put the bulbs at risk.
For underwater, blue is by far the most popular.
Blue and green light have shorter wavelengths than white light, and can penetrate through the water more efficiently making them look brighter. The human eye is more sensitive to blue and greens also which helps to make the lights look brighter. However, if you do your boating in crystal clear waters we recommend White, as this simply enhances the natural beauty. OceanLED white LEDs are whiter than any other underwater light on the market so when you want a white light, you do truly get a white light as opposed to the ‘yellow’ variety. All blue are great for slightly murkier waters such as the Florida coastline or the Mediterranean. Green which is great for attracting fish is the best colour for penetration in fresh water. If you do your boating in intercostal waterways or very bad visibility areas, green helps make the water look cleaner but is not always the most aesthetically pleasing.
All OceanLED lights except the T-Series are treated with the Unique Tritonium coating. This basically forms a non stick layer making it virtually impossible for barnacles and so on to stick to the lens. If you find they do, however, it is very easy to clean them off. If in the water a soft bristle brush should do the trick, and if the boat is out of the water then make sure the lens is soaked with water and then using an ice scraper or something similar it is very easy to bring it back to new again as shown in the video here. The T-Series do not have Tritonium protection instead they are supplied with lens protection tear off strips that can be removed and re-applied as and when needed.
There are a number of factors regulating how far the lights will shine out, #1 being how big/bright the light is? #2 What colour are you using? #3 How clean is the water? In dirty water we have seen light reach as little as 3' / 1 meter but in perfect conditions the same lights reach out beyond 100' / 30 meters. In the picture the largest boat is 70', therefore the lights being shown reach out way beyond 100'.
You don't. LEDs are light emitting diodes which are electronic components. They are not traditional light bulbs.
All OceanLED lights are thermal protected and will dim or turn off when above normal temperature is reached. Once the unit has cooled down the light will turn back on.
The running temperature of any light from OceanLED is designed to run within 40 - 60 degrees centigrade (104 - 140 degrees Fahrenheit) depending on the which size of light and the ambient conditions.
Yes, all lights have reverse polarity protection. Red is always positive, black is always negative.
OceanLED lights are rated for up to 40,000+ hours.
Amphibian 3 - 12vDC
Amphibian 6/12 - 12/24vDC
2010 HD - 12/24vDC (optional vAC upgrade)
3010 HD - 12/24vDC (optional vAC upgrade)
COLOURS HD - 110/220 vAC
EYES Camera - 12vDC
Tritonium Optical Technologies is a small research laboratory located in England specialising in optical systems mainly for the Military and the Aerospace industries. 12 months of research and development between OceanLED and Tritonium has resulted in a world beating optical lensing system, not only for underwater lighting, but for lighting in general.
Some conventional lights are cheaper, but by the time you have replaced a few Xenon or HID bulbs, and one or two ballasts, conventional lights can turn out to be a lot more expensive than OceanLED lights. Typical life expectancy of bulbs are as follows: Halogen = approx. 500 - 1000 hours, Xenon = approx. 1000 - 3000 hours, HID = approx. 3000 - 5000 hours, OceanLED = approx. 40,000 hours. The longest life of a Xenon or HID lamp can only achieved when left on for more than 10 hours at a time in a cool environment. The more they are used for shorter periods, the less time they will last. On average, Xenon and HID will have lost 50% of their light output by the time they have reached their half life. If there are Xenon or HID lights on a boat and one bulb blows, all bulbs will need to be changed in every light to maintain a matching colour temperature and brightness.
No, you can turn the lights on and off a million times an hour with absolutely no effect on the LEDs.
Yes, All OceanLED lights include inline fuse kits which are recommended to be installed with every light.
Under ideal circumstances OceanLED would recommend the following installation depth to achieve the best lighting effect: - 200-250mm (8-10") to the top of the fixture. However provided the product is underwater during normal operation the effects can still be good.
Props and propellers are made from the same material for a very good reason -?? it is one of the most robust metals underwater. Stainless Steel is very good out of the water as its top layer oxidizes. However underwater this does not occur and therefore it will corrode. Aluminium Bronze is expensive, but has great resilience to salt water corrosion as well as having great thermal characteristics to help keep the light and LEDs cool.
Both the Thru Hull and Flush Mount models are available with delrin isolating sleeves to separate the dissimilar metals. See our accessories page for further details.
No, an LED driver maintains a constant power to the LEDs, the input voltage makes no difference.
The T-Series models are designed for boats that are not kept in the water for more than 2 weeks.
No, The Amphibian and Hybrid models have internal drivers. THe Pro Series HD models require an external driver which is included with the light.
All of our products are sold seperately. However all of the components such as drivers, cables, and fuses are included with each light purchase.
The only models that we recommend for above and below the water use are the Amphibian T-Series.
You can mount the lights in just about any location on your boat. We recommend using the Pro Series HD Flush Mount or Xchangeable Flush Mount for the side and bottom of the boat. The other models have a profile that is too large and will cause drag when running the boat.
All of our products come with a detailed instruction manual. These manuals cover the wiring installation of the lights.
Most OceanLED products will work with a basic 2 way switch that can be purchased at your local marine dealer. In some cases you might already have a 2 way switch that is open/empty on your console that you can use with out purchasing a new one. OceanLED always recommends that you consult a professional marine installer when you are installing your underwater lights.
The Narrow beam angle is for a more precise glow of light coming from the fixture. The Wide beam is for a halo or cosistant glow of light around the boat. The Choice is yours depending on the look you want your boat to have.
OceanLED does not recommend the install of our lights on the trim tabs of your vessel.